Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is a major part of Miles Thompson’s cooking palette.  It not only provides Asian flavors but also seems to cleverly move within European tradition in the ways that it is used at Allumette.  Actually, as Miles observes no strict priority with regard to base flavorants, disparate traditions are often combined in his food.  In the same way that one might use stock, wine or vinegar as a base ingredient, various soy sauces can be used as well.  There are wide-ranging flavors and textures that fermented soy can provide.  In the following, Chef Miles expounds on several of these.  The dishes that he refers to are currently on the Allumette Menu. 

KOIKUCHI or "Regular Soy Sauce" is used in the Lime Ponzu for the Fairy

Koikuchi

Squid intermezzo (this is a baby squid from Japan.  It is offered as a complimentary between regular courses)).  It has a nice brewed flavor that works well with the Rice Vinegar, Lime Juice, and Ginger to yield a well seasoned but ultimately identifiable Ponzu.

Usukuchi

USUKUCHI or "Light Flavored Soy Sauce" is used in the Rosemary Emulsion that is on the Fried Green Tomato Dish.  Despite the name, Usukuchi is higher in salt than standard Soy Sauce; its bracing salinity coupled with a high proportion of Lemon Juice and juiced Rosemary lends an assertive amount of seasoning and flavor to the sauce.  This emulsion coupled with Black Vinegar Vinaigrette heavy in alliums and Vietnamese Spices are what season the Soft Egg whose yolk craves highly salted/seasoned sauces to achieve balance in the dish due to its apparent fat.

MARIDAIZU or "Extra Fancy Whole Bean Soy Sauce" is used in the Black

Maridaizu

Garlic Syrup that glazes the Octopus Confit.  I learned about Maridaizu while working at Nobu.  It was the Shoyu given with Sashimi.  Its deep and fully actualized umami quality pairs nicely with sweetness and funk making it the natural candidate for a sauce comprised of Palm Sugar, Champagne Vinegar, Lime Juice, and Fermented Garlic.

YUASA SHOYU is a type of Soy Sauce or Shoyu that is barrel aged for 3

Yuasa Shoyu

years after is has completed its fermentation.  Yuasa is a town located in the Arida District in the Wakayama Prefecture in Japan and it is said that it is the original town in which Shoyu was produced.  We use this particular Shoyu in an equal ratio to Pumpkin Seed Oil to make the sauce for the Flat Iron Steak dish.  Both the Shoyu and Oil have an incredibly complex viscosity that really pair well together.  The Yuasa Shoyu borders on tart while having a distinct but ultimately balanced salinity which seasons the Pumpkin Seed Oil and as with any roasted meat dish supplies the necessary forward level of salt; the apparent tartness also links up well with the Aleppo Pepper, Sherry Vinegar, and Lemon Juice that the Steak is dressed with prior to serving.